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The salmon roll - filled with salmon and tomato, then dotted with chives and smeared with onion cream - was a favorite, with a taste like a summer salad on a breezy day. When I went, there were 17 choices, divided into five sections (Signature, Vegan, Primo, Crunchy, and Classic), almost all priced from $5 to $10. These things are quite big, and require two or even three bites to consume. Yes, it looks like a Japanese taco, but let’s call it a U-roll instead. As the sushi chef tucks the assemblage into a wooden device placed before you, a characteristic “U” shape appears. Their version is made by laying down a small sheet of nori, loading it with a wad of rice and piling the raw fish on top.

Well, they’re not really roll-shaped, as temaki usually are. In opposition to the Sugarfish model, Nami Nori’s output is produced as you watch by a cadre of sushi chefs who turn out the unique hand rolls made here. Maki carryouts also now offer small morsels of fish wrapped in dried laver, something Korean storefronts in Queens had been doing for some time. There’s places like Sugarfish, which offers bargain and partly sustainable meals of high quality with a pedestrian fish selection, and a bowl of poke can be purchased for $20 or less, another way of merchandising seafood at a bargain. Lately, though, lower priced vehicles for raw fish have materialized, and I don’t mean sushi’s disturbing appearance in chain drugstores. (It’s now $595.) These days, paying $200 or $300 is common at a raft of new places that confine themselves to sushi.

At middling Japanese restaurants, it’s become common to pay $75 for eight pieces of sushi and a maki roll, and over $100 for an omakase - a menu option that became ubiquitous after the 2004 debut of Masa, where the then-$500 price tag caused jaws to drop. Since sushi became democratized in the last decade of the 20th century, the cost has zoomed upward, partly propelled by the accelerating scarcity of the highest quality fish. The opening of accomplished newcomer Nami Nori has come at a time when budget sushi would benefit from some retooling.